The Exumas are one of the top destinations that we want to visit while sailing the Caribbean. Since this season we will just be sailing the Bahamas, the Exumas are THE destination we are looking forward to exploring. The waters are said to be the among the clearest and bluest in the world – even compared to the rest of the Bahamas. We’re not sure we’re sold on that, but we are sold that we love the Exumas!
Sailing from Cape
We set sail from our temporary home at Cape Eleuthera Marina in the late morning after filling up on fuel and water. Shortly after exiting the channel, we work on getting both of our sails up as it actually seems like a nice day for sailing! With both sails up, we turn off the motors and notice that we’re only going about 5 knots. We don’t have the patience for that, so our port engine goes back on – motor sailing it is!
It’s a pretty uneventful passage with Matt working and me manning the helm. Monster alternates between helping me and sleeping next to Matt depending on where he’s sitting.
As we enter the Exumas, we are aiming to land at Highborne Cay. We pick out a well protected anchorage in a horseshoe shaped bay that is supposed to be away from where the mega yachts tend to anchor near Highborne. We show up in the afternoon and see only one other boat anchored – a very nice looking power cat (it’s a charter). After doing our circle to check the depths, we pick our spot and drop the hook. It sets well; now we just need to decide what to do with our evening.
The iguanas of Allen Cay
Given that we need to take Monster to shore, we decide to head on over to neighboring Allen Cay which is known for having a unique species of iguanas. According to Wikipedia, they are a subspecies of the Bahamian Rock Iguana and Allen Cay is one of the only places in the world where they reside. I have heard others describe them as “pink” iguanas. As we pull our dinghy up onto the beach, we immediately spot several iguanas; although, I’m not sure I would call them pink in color.
We explore the small cay a bit and as Monster barks at one of the iguanas, we see it puff up before running off. They are definitely pink! Not a hot pink, but a very noticeable soft shade of pink – especially when they get angry it seems. Monster is just dying to chase the iguanas – she is after all Sea Monster’s designated lizard chaser and these are just big lizards. For her own safety (they are much bigger than her) and for their enjoyment, we put her on a leash and don’t allow her to chase. Actually, she isn’t on a leash because I forgot to bring it; instead she is tied up with some yellow rope we found in the dinghy – close enough.
After snapping lots of photos and checking out the cute beach with a single palm tree on the other side of the cay, we decide to head out and hopefully find some snorkeling. Unfortunately, we do not find much by way of good snorkeling – other reviewers must have lower standards. Matt keeps sticking his head in the water to check it out, but nothing seems worthwhile for us to actually jump in. We do dinghy up to another beach nearby where we enjoy more of the iguanas, but thanks to Monster’s constant barking and scrambling to try getting out of my arms, we quickly move on.
Camp Driftwood
After leaving Allen’s Cay, we head towards North Shroud Cay. There is a small anchorage right outside of the Exuma Land and Sea Park – putting us close enough to the action without being next to dozens of other boats (and it’s free!). This anchorage is most well known for it’s proximity to Camp Driftwood. That name is a bit misleading and a “camp” makes you think there’s at least places to pitch a tent and possibly showers or even kayaks tied up to a dock for use. Instead, this camp is is a single sign at the top of a hill proclaiming the spot to indeed be Camp Driftwood. It does have gorgeous views though.
We take our dinghy through a winding creek lined with mangroves over towards the Atlantic side. We keep a close eye out for turtles and rays inside the creek, but only manage to spot one of each. When we arrive at the small creek inlet leading to the Atlantic ocean, we are greeted by some of the most beautiful white sand beaches.
From here, we are able to beach our dinghy and take the short (but steep) trail up to the top of the hill. At the top, we have amazing views of both the Atlantic and Exuma Sound. The shades of blue and turquoise in the water are mesmorizing and the palm trees are picture perfect. We get lots of photos.
Once back down on the beach, Monster decides to roll in the sand and make a mess of herself – per usual.
We get back to our boat in time for sunset and a nice dinner. It’s time to decide where we will be heading next (within the Exuma chain).
