Most cruisers we’ve spoken with have said they skipped St Croix. We simply don’t understand this. We love St. Croix! It is a bit out of the way of the other Virgin Islands, but makes a great jumping off point to head east to either St Martin or Saba. Previously, on our way east, we made a quick stop (mostly to check out the bio-luminescent jellyfish!). Now we’re back to spend a few more days enjoying the island, with the highlight being freediving the Fredriksted Pier.
Heading west
Our sleepless night at Saba made it easy to get up before the sun this morning. We cast off the mooring ball as daylight starts to rise and start on our 90 mile journey to St Croix. The waves are a bit larger than we like, but they are following us (i.e. coming from behind) which makes the movement better than uncomfortable. Going west is so much better than going east. This should be our longest journey from now until we leave Puerto Rico to head north in a couple months. Motivation.
We are about halfway through our journey when the depth sounders start showing shallow depths ranging from 5-100 feet, despite being in water over 1,000 feet deep. If we’ve learned anything this year – that means something is below us! Typically, dolphins. Matt heads up to the bow to try and spot them as we assume they are racing along with our boat. Normally, they enjoy showing off and coming right up to the surface at the bow while racing us. Not this time. After 15-20 minutes, neither Matt nor I have been able to find any signs of dolphins, but our depth sounders keep saying otherwise.
We’re a bit confused, but keeping an eye out. Surely we will see some fins eventually. After a while, we begin to convince ourselves that maybe it’s not dolphins, maybe it’s a school of fish or something. Eventually, though Matt spots a dorsal fin pop out of the water. Just one, and just for a second. At least that confirms we aren’t crazy – there are dolphins here (at least one). We keep watching the depth sounders and swear that must be several dolphins swimming along with us at varying depths. We’re hypothesizing whether or not they can time it to come up for air between our hulls where we can’t see them. According to Google, most dolphins can hold their breath between 8-10 minutes. It’s been a couple hours now with only one spotting. Maybe we are crazy after all.
At one point, I spot a couple larger dorsal fins off in the distant. Instantly, I’m sure these are not dolphins. After a second showing, I’m able to recognize them as pilot whales! They are crossing behind the boat – unfortunately, a ways off. Matt immediately puts our engines in neutral so that we don’t move further away – and just in case they want to approach us to say hi (we can dream, right?)! The pilot whales continue on, but by bringing the boat to idle, guess who comes up to investigate? Our pod of dolphins! They were with us the entire time after all, and more than just one. We spot somewhere shy of a dozen, but guess there are likely more. The most incredible part is that the pod has (at least) two baby dolphins! We are lucky to snag a couple *okay* videos of one of the babies.
After starting the engines back up to continue on our way (no sailing for us today), the dolphins disappear back underwater. We don’t spot them again the rest of our journey, but our depth sounders let us know they continue to stay with us. About 5 miles outside of St Croix, we have our last depth reading from them. I’m feeling pretty disappointed because I convinced myself that they were using our boat to safely travel to the St Croix area and upon arrival would come to the surface to play and “say thanks” with jumps and flips. Apparently, my life is not a Disney movie.
Buck Island
We pull up to our intended anchorage at Buck Island just before sunset. There is one other catamaran hanging out, but it looks like they are just enjoying the view (and not anchoring for the night). We circle the area before finding a sandy spot to drop our hook. It takes a bit to get it set, but then we are able to relax for the night. Monster is eyeing the pretty beach that sits in front of us, but even she decides we can wait to visit until tomorrow.
Shortly before dropping the hook, we read that technically we’re supposed to get a permit to anchor at Buck Island overnight. Such a permit can only be obtained in person, and is not processed on the spot. Which leaves us with two options: 1) find another spot to anchor or 2) pretend like we never read that. We’re pretty exhausted and really looking forward to snorkeling the nearby reef tomorrow – so we choose option two. As they say, better to beg for forgiveness than ask for permission.
The next morning we wake up and take the dinghy around to the nearby reef, tying up to one of the mooring balls. We prefer to snorkel later in the afternoon, but know that this is a big tour boat spot so we’re trying to beat the crowds. I read that by 10 am the tour boats start showing up. We arrive after 9 am and are the only ones at the reef. This spot was damaged by hurricane Irma (and possibly some coral bleaching), but it’s actually much nicer than we were expecting. Much of the coral comes up very shallow, which is great for traditional snorkeling. We weave our way through the reef (I say *through* because some parts are too shallow to swim over), and find some deeper areas off the backside. We entertain a little free diving and try to keep our eyes peeled for larger animals passing by.
We don’t spot anything large or super amazing, but still really enjoy our time in the water here. There are signs or plaques here that mark different species of coral and fish. Sadly all of them are covered in algae. We wish we would have known that ahead of time, we would have brought our bottom cleaning supplies and cleaned off the signs. You would think that all these dive/snorkel operators would do that themselves since they bring guests here every day. I digress. At 10 am on the dot, the first tour boat shows up. Within minutes a couple more have arrived and we decide that is our cue to leave.
We haul anchor to head over towards Fredriksted on the west side of St. Croix. We think about staying an extra night at Buck Island, but figure we shouldn’t push our luck since we already got one night without a permit. The trip over to Frediksted is nice and easy – along the coast with following waves. After arriving at our anchorage, a short shower ensues and we are rewarded with a double rainbow!
Diving the pier
The Fredriksted pier is known as one of the best dive sites in the USVI. Bright, colorful, healthy corals grow around each of the giant columns that build the foundation of the pier. In addition, large bait balls, schools of fish, and turtles consider this site to be home. It is quite the underwater ecosystem and just so gorgeous. We’ve heard it described before as each column is its own unique dive. That’s really quite true.
We intentionally anchored close enough to the pier that we are able to swim over from our boat. Once at the pier we slowly move throughout the columns doing a LOT of freediving. We are loving all the creatures, and especially the colorful coral growth, but the main thing we are looking for is a seahorse. We’ve heard they’re here and we are determined to find one. It’s not lack of determination, but we don’t spot a seahorse in either of our two visits to the pier. We do however spot a couple octopus which are almost as good of find!
All together, we spend several hours snorkeling and freediving the pier. It is one of Matt’s favorite spots we’ve been to! Here is a short underwater video compilation.
St Croix has several other awesome dive sites besides just the Pier. We have high hopes of checking out the wall dives on the northwest side of the island, but unfortunately don’t manage to find the time. That is probably mostly due to Monster’s extensive vet visits, but also Matt’s work, and the northeast winds kicking up the seas on the north side. I guess we have something new to look forward to for next time.
Pizza is the key to my heart
We eat a lot of pizza on-board Sea Monster. When I read that there is a bar called the “Lost Dog” serving up amazing pizza, I know we have to visit. What could be more fitting?
As sunset approaches, the three of us dinghy over to the pier for a nice evening walk followed by a pizza dinner. The town of Fredriksted is really quaint and cute, with a nice walking path along the water. Given that cruise ships typically only come in one day a week, the town is usually quite sleepy and low-key. Definitely, our speed.
After getting Monster some exercise, we head over towards the Lost Dog. Upon arrival, we see that there’s an inside “dive bar” area and then a large outdoor space out back. Obviously, we opt for the outdoor area. After looking a the menu, we order a couple local beers, a pizza, and a calzone. I’d like to say that our eyes are bigger than our stomachs, but really we just eat a lot (all three of us). Especially when it comes to pizza.
Of course, everything is delicious. Especially the calzone. I wish we could order ten calzones to take back to the boat. We don’t have room for that type of nonsense, though. Don’t worry – instead we return two nights later and order two calzones this time. Delicious.
Too many vet visits
During our time in St. Croix, we’ve been planning for our upcoming visit to the British Virgin Islands. They are known for being one of the more strict islands to bring a dog into. If you’ve been following our prior blog posts, you might have put together that so far we have completed the formal dog import process at exactly ZERO islands so far. I’ve honestly spent so many hours researching, and getting the right shots, tests, paperwork, etc. Somehow, though, we just keep being pirates.
The key to being pirates is to be prepared to leave immediately if an island decides your dog is not allowed or kicks you out. Up until this point, we have been prepared to do exactly that. For the BVIs, however, I’m not willing to take the risk of missing out. I’m really excited to visit again – this is where we learned to sail – and my parents are going to fly into Tortola to visit. So, we have to check Monster in through the books on this one.
I’ve been doing some emailing back and forth with the BVI agriculture department. In short, we have a problem. Monster’s Rabies FAVN (or Titer) test results are approximately 14 months old. The BVIs will only accept results that are within 12 months. This test is not only expensive, but it can take several weeks to get results. It also requires quite a bit of blood which the vet struggled to get from little Monster the first time. I’m trying to figure out some way to not have to re-do this. In Europe, there is a thing known as a Pet Passport – which essentially allows pets to travel between the European Union nations. It requires a Titer test – but only one, if subsequent Rabies vaccines are maintained current. I tried using this to reason with BVI, but they were only willing to accept that if we actually have a pet passport (we don’t). Initially we think we can just submit for one, but it has to be completed by a vet in the EU and it doesn’t seem that vets in say French islands count. One creative attempt shot down.
Next I discover that the USVI are considered a non-rabies epidemic country (unlike the US mainland). This is important, because dog import requirements to the BVIs are different if traveling from a rabies epidemic country versus non-rabies epidemic country. The biggest difference? No Titer test required. BINGO. The only tricky part is that the dog is supposed to have been in the non-rabies epidemic country for at least 6 months. I know it’s wrong, but I’m willing to fudge the truth on that little tid-bit. I confirm with the BVI contact that we simply need to get an endorsed health certificate from a USDA accredited vet in the USVI. Easy enough.
Actually not so easy. I call around to a few vet offices. We need an appointment within the next couple days because we are supposed to head to Puerto Rico to meet Matt’s parents. Obviously, I can’t tell the vets that though (since Monster is supposed to have been in the USVI for at least 6 months before heading to BVI). I eventually find one that has an opening for tomorrow. It is on the other side of the island, though, and there is no Uber here. A quick Google search tells me that cabs should be available at the Fredriksted pier.
The next morning, Monster and I head in early to catch a cab, but find none around. A local dive shop gives me a number to call and a cab can arrive in 30 minutes. Glad we left early! At least we have lots of time to walk around and take in the views.
The cab driver is not very friendly and quite annoyed I have a dog. After arrival, I ask if $X is the correct rate – there are flat rates here. He nastily informs me that he should charge double because I have a dog. Ok, then. Let’s remember that she’s 9 lbs and stays in a bag on my lap the whole time. Whatever, he just hurt his tip.
The vet is very nice and after a quick check-up, she fills out a health certificate for Monster. It’s not the usual federal APHIS Form 7001 like we typically need though. Upon inquiry, she informs me that the USDA vet (who gives the endorsement) will complete the required form. That definitely doesn’t seem right, but what can I do? I pay our fee and them work on finding the bus to get back. That’s a huge fail. We end up at an outdoor bar asking for additional cab numbers. The recommended driver says he can have someone here in 20 minutes – great. 45 minutes and two phone calls later, he finally shows up. He FLIPS out on me for having a dog! Seriously, hostile. Eventually he gives us a ride, but it’s not pleasant.
After getting back to the boat and shedding a few tears, I call around to other vet clinics. Another vet is able to get us in tomorrow and can fill out the APHIS 7001 form. This vet is literally next door to the previous one – ugh! This time, we find yet another taxi to call and pre-arrange for a pick-up for tomorrow morning (letting them know one passenger is canine). We’re learning.
The next morning, Monster and I are waiting nice and early at the pier for our taxi. After being 5 minutes late, I start calling. No one answers – multiple times. I’m trying to figure out the bus option again, or if there’s any car rentals around. I try calling other taxis. I might be shedding more tears at this point. Eventually I get hold of my original taxi, and the driver informs me that I cancelled last night (obviously, not true). After a bit back and forth, she arrives 20 minutes later – now 45 minutes late. She ends up being the nicest driver ever and coos over Monster the whole way. After hearing my story, she calls up her friend at the vet and lets them know we’re a few minutes late but it’s her fault. Upon arrival at the vet, she stays and waits with us the whole time and then proceeds to drive us back to the pier. My faith in humanity is restored.
At the clinic, the vet herself was amazing and super nice. She performed yet another exam on Monster and them completed the health certificate form. Now I still need to get it endorsed, though. Similar to the vet yesterday, she tells me the name of a vet here on St Croix that is accredited with the USDA to do the endorsement. However, I called the phone number of said vet yesterday and was rudely informed by her secretary that she is off the island but does not and never has done such a thing. I relay this to the attending vet who seems surprised, but tells me not to worry about it. She calls the USDA vet and learns that she is indeed off island, but can make arrangements with BVI. This ultimately means that I don’t have to get the endorsement because the USDA vet contacts the BVI department and gets approval for an exception.
After returning to the boat, I relay all this to Matt. Once I have recited my story, it hits me that we’re done. Since we don’t need the endorsement and since we are importing from the USVI, this health certificate indicating the appropriate vaccines and tests is all we need. What a relief! I’ll continue to be a bit nervous until we actually get into the BVI, but we should be good.
This is just one example of the challenges people go through to travel with their dogs. We don’t even follow all the rules and its still been exhausting and stressful.
